Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always characterized its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to explore these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
